More 3D chassis printing for the little Subaru 360 and with a few changes I'm finally there. I've also printed an interior plate with chassis posts and even leaves room for 90% of the dash. Not sure if I'm going to paint this or leave it as the white plastic with possible a coat of Klear after the decals are on as I'd probably spend 2 to 3 times as long cleaning the airbrush as I would applying paint.
Spent a while today trying to print a 3D chassis for the little Subaru 360 but haven't got very far yet. Thought I might get away with adjusting the chassis designed for the Revell Sunbeam Alpine but looks like a C-can motor isn't going to work with the little wheels. I did think of going for a long can which will just fit length wise but still not a lot of ground clearance. While I might get away with a Flat-6 motor I've decided to play it save and go with a slimline motor.
Not much of an update but I have downloaded a 3DP chassis designed by Johnny's Workshop for the 1/25(1/24th) scale Revel Shelby Cobra kit. It printed Ok but I'm still have problems with some areas seeming to print over/under size, shrinkage problem??. I've also made a very small start on the kit and have glued the bonnet and boot lid in place. This need to be in place so I can fit the front and rear body posts which will be the next job.
I started this project a little while ago and have now got a running car, it's a long way from perfect but it is all vintage. The Palmer Plastics 1/32nd scale Cooper Ford kit includes all the parts to make a slot car including driver tray, wheel inserts and a reversable rear chassis mounting that will fit either Revell or Riko rear screw points. The front mounting point is another matter and doesn't match up completely with any chassis although it is only slightly out for a Riko chassis. The Riko chassis has to be set to the shortest wheel base possible and the front mounting screw is at a slight angle, didn't want to move the post in case I find a better fitting chassis at some point. The mounting points are designed to take the fairly standard brass inserts but as I don't have any of these I decided to try the cotton wool and super glue trick and it seems to have worked very well. The track is quite narrow and I struggled to find a pair of axles to suit. The body still needs painting and detail adding but at least it is a runner.
My Arii KPCG10 Skyline kit body has been sitting around for quite a while now since I found another use for the Pitlane chassis that was fitted to it. I was going to fit a 3D printed chassis but by pure chance the body mounting posts allowed me to fit the Cox vintage chassis I bought a while ago and the new rules for my clubs vintage saloon cars allows Japanese cars up to 1971 and I have need of a saloon car.
Decided to start building the Revell Ford Fairlane Sunliner kit. This dates back to 1956 so the body is in 5 parts and you really need to build it up from the chassis which isn't really an option for a slot car body.
The Jaguar 420 build is now in a running condition and has been track tested. It runs very nicely on my Policar layout and has also been tested on my club's wooden track where it, surprisingly, went very well, considering the narrow tyres, not the fastest of cars but quite smooth to drive.
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