This layout was started in March 2012.
Had my ninco track all layed out on the livingroom floor but this made it hard to get across with out stepping on the track. So it had to come up and move to the shed (no spare room to use).
So the shed is not that big and I'm restricted to a baseboard of about 5'6" by 3" (about 1650 x 900mm) not a lot of space to work with mad.gif . The original idea was to have 2 base boards on top of each other and then to run a level around the wall.
This is the framework for the main baseboard made using 2"x2" and 2"x1", the legs, front and back rails are 2"x2" whilst the cross members are 2"x1".
The base board was the covered with some old MDF shelving I had, the idea being to cover it with some 1/2" thick sundelar board (pinboard). The thought being that I can fix scenery items with short pins pressed into the board with no drilling needed. If I need to move something I just pull it up and reposition it. The resulting pin hole can be covered with a dab of paint etc.
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It now became apparent that my idea of a lower level would not work as you would have to stand a long way back to see anything at all. So it looks like it will be baseboard then level 1 along back and right side and then level 2 along right side, back and left side with a loop at this point. the track is used with 2 roundabout loops (my original Ninco set being World Rally) so it will be single lane and I will get double the track length so the small space is not so bad.
This means I have to rethink the layout on the baseboard but I did cut 6mm MDF for the level 1 right hand side piece.
There will be a hairpin at the end of this piece, from here the track will climb to level 2.
I've kept the piece leading to the hairpin level at the moment but I think the climb up the back may be to steep and this part my have to have an inclimb.
I am supporting the raised levels with shelf brackets so nothing needs to come up from the baseboard.
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The level 2 boards will need a small frame made from 1"x1" and I have the option of placing cross peices above the shelf brackets or clamping the shelf brackets between the MDF and frame, this method will I think let me be more flexable the the MDF for sloops between levels.
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Now its time to get Ultimate Racer out and design the track for the baseboard.
I tried out a possible layout for the baseboard the problem is to fit a reasonable amount of track and loop on the board
This is the first attempt and the left and right halves.
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If I went with this the front left would probably be done as a tunnel and the drop over the loop as a bridge.
A small video of the track at this time
Had to take it easy as no barriers or borders and it's a long drop.
To paint the track I think I will try Plasticote Stone finish paint for the raised section of the track as this will be tarmac road and also for the normal track on the baseboard but in the light grey colour or even the pinkish one as this will be gavel road surface. But I need to paint the snow track I still want to keep it slippery as I intend to paint it brown / sand to represent mud/dirt track. As can be seen in the video at the moment it is way to slippery (I run most of my cars without magnets). I need to find a paint type available in the UK that will give the snow track some slip but will not have a glossy finish and will stick to the very smooth shiney plastic. I Think I may have to try some of the paint designed for respraying car bumpers as a primer.
I'm also hoping that a layer of primer and Plasticote will help reduce the rised hight of the rail in the Ninco track as I find that 2 of my cars, Revell Mk1 Cortina and SCX Mini, catch on the track in places as the have very little clearance (the Mini would not run untill I removed the magnet).
I think for the gravel areas I may put a little filler on the track so its not to smooth and may be the odd patch on the snow track.
Tried out some different layouts on the base track
This is test layout 2 (see above for test layout 1)
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Testing the design
Then it was test layout 3 and finally test layout 4 & 5 (layout 4 has the snow track as 3)
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and a small test of track 4
Ok so layout 1 was ok, layout 2 was better than 1 and a possible, layout 3 I found dull and simple Layout 4 was good but the snow track proved very difficault on the climb. But with the changes to layout 5 it was challenging and fun and with the 2 seperate bits of snow track in the climb its now very driveable.
So I am going with track 5 as I like the layout and the level changes. It doesn't show up well in the pictures but the turning loop is raised, more at the front than the back which also has adverse camber then flat until it will climb from front right till the first crossing which will be level then slow climb to the back left then level again, don't know just how I'm going to do the scenery at front left. All the rest of level 1 is flat, then the righthand side of level 2 climbs and levels out along the back. The back of level 2 probably won't stay straight. I'm thinking of cutting some track to give a single lane straight run at the rear with some single lane 'S' bends along the front.
Anyway the track is now all removed and the baseboard covered with polystyrene sheet 1" thick, a change due to stock availablity and cost. I can also use the polystyrene to make supports for raising the track. I have also fitted the support brackets for the rear track of level 1.
My idea is still to paint the snow track as mud / dirt and all the normal track till the first bridge / crossing as gravel then all other track as road / tarmac.
I need to try and get as much done tomorrow as possible as I'm back to work next week and that will slow things down (Holiday this week).
I've glued part of the polystyrene on to the baseboard, only part as I forgot about glue and used just what I could find. Won't be getting any glue till I'm back at work, I get it cheap as I work in builders merchants, so I'm not paying DIY shed prices for it. Anyway I layed out the lefthand side of the track and set the levels then connected up some power and it seemed ok. All the supporting polystyrene to be glued during the coming week.
I the marked out and cut some 6mm MDF for the section that rises from the back right to the first level. Installed the track and tested it with a few cars.
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To make testing easier I installed the second loop at the end of level 1 on the right and here are some videos of the testing, also used the Revell Mk1 Cortina, SCX Mini and Pioneer Mustang. Was going to film my Power Slot Polo but this was the first casualty as it left the track at front and broke the guide when it hit the floor. For this reason I'm taking it easy in the videos.
One problem that may need a rethink is the most of the loop and also the snow track is hidden from view when standing near the track. The is not so obvious from the videos as they are taken lower down but can be seen in the photos. this is also probably the hardest part of the track to drive. As can also be seen in the videos there is a problem the some cars catching on the track at the back at one of the joins. This is a problem I have found with some Ninco track sections where the rail is higher in one piece than the other.
Anyway I will try and see what it's like if I'm seated when driving or I might have to revert to layout 3 (see above).
The more I thought about it the more layout 5 becomes unusable due to lots of the track being hidden. I know I changed the layout slightly but with the supporting board in place for the raised section I don't think that will make much difference and I prefer the straight section in the climb and for the bridge.
So I'm going to go with layout 3 but will try some raised sections in it, may be at the left rear and that corner is going to need blocking off as I can't reach past the track into the corner.
Anyway will test it and see what I think.
Major changes, reverted to layout 3 but with the snow track in different places as per photos
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As you can see I've been playing about with the levels to add a bit more interest, biggest problem was getting enough clearance for the crossover. I wanted to raise the loop but this left very little clearance. May try with some corrugated card or MDF under the loop just to raise it a bit or may have to revert to the original curved raised part for the crossover (but that will mean recutting the MDF). I may be able to cut and join what I've already used if I go that way.
Also it looks like I will need to find a way to fix the track in place, probably glue it down in certain places as I don't think MDF as borders and plastered over will keep the track in place at some of the level changes.
I've decided to end the Rally In A Shed layout at this point in early April 2012.
In reality none of the layouts tried worked for various reasons...
Layout 5 (the best of the 3 to drive) because to much track was hidden from view.
Layout 1 to simple.
Layout 2 going in front of the window I think would have been a problem with heat and the sun.
So instead I'm going to start
Rally In A Shed 2.
